A Freiburg Afternoon (and Morning and Early Evening)

Friday, 11 November, 2011 - Well, technically my day started at 10:26 the previous evening when I boarded the overnight train, but that's of little consequence. All that should be taken from those 11 hours are that I look forward to going to Switzerland (I had a forty minute stop in Zurich and decided to walk around outside briefly) and that paying for things in Switzerland is obnoxious because they accept Euro but they return whatever change you would have in Swiss Francs. Thus when I payed €10 for a €2 muffin, I was given approximately 8 Swiss Francs that I then wasn't sure what to do with. I still have most of them in my wallet...

Anyway, early Friday morning I arrived in Freiburg.

Lauren wasn't going to get in for another few hours, so I figured I would do some preliminary exploration to ensure efficient use of time when Lauren did arrive. I admittedly did very little reading up on Freiburg before arriving since I was rather preoccupied with getting everything settled post break-in, so I figured the best place to start would be tourist information. I got directions to the city center - about a ten minute walk straight out the main door of the train station - and after strolling through a somewhat more modern and not particularly noteworthy part of the city I came to a cobbled street that opened up onto Rathaus Platz, where the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall) stands.

Freiburg actually has a pretty fascinating history (which ironically involves Strasbourg, the city Lauren and I were headed to later that evening, and the Hapsburgs). Aside: it's okay, you can tune out quickly if you're not enthralled by townspeople murdering a bishop. Just make your way down to the next paragraph... So, where was I? Right, Freiburg. Founded in 1120 as a free market town (Frei = free and Burg = castle, though can also refer to a fortified town), its population multiplied to 6,000 people by 1200. Life was good, the citizens had their rights, they were relatively well off, and began construction of a Romanesque-turned-Gothic cathedral. Alas, their duke died in 1218 and some nearby counts pulled Freiburg into their reign. Unfortunately a storm cloud started brewing on the horizon and by the end of the 13th century it had blown over Freiburg and was ready to unleash havoc. The lord at the time, Count Egino II, raised taxes and attempted to limit the peoples' freedom, so they utterly destroyed his castle with catapults. Not surprisingly, the count was enraged and sought the help of his brother-in-law, the Bishop of Strasbourg. Said bishop marched his army into Freiburg but was then stabbed to death by a local butcher by the name of Hauri on July 29th, 1299. It was a short-lived victory for the citizens, however, since they had to pay 300 marks annually to the count for the next 69 years. They then got fed up and purchased their independence and turned themselves over to the rule and protection of the Hapsburgs. A lot has happened in the past six hundred and forty three years, but I think that 250 year period was the most interesting. So ends your history lesson for today.

Next to the Rathaus I spied with my little eye the tourist information center I was looking for and gathered my information before setting off. I took the scenic route to the cathedral, Freiburger Münster, passing such noteworthy places as the "Kartoffel Markt" (the Potato Market square). Most of the squares had Christmas market stalls in the midst of being set up, but none were actually open yet. At long last (okay, more like fifteen minutes later), I turned a corner to behold the Münster spire beckoning me down the narrow cobbled street.

As I neared the massive red sandstone cathedral I saw that there was a famers market filling the square. I was a little surprised that most of the stalls were selling flowers and plants, but it created a really pleasant aroma as it mixed with the scent of roasting chestnuts.

I meandered through the stalls, stopping to further investigate some of the ones that boasted wooden carvings, and had a few brief chats with some of the merchants. I was particularly taken with one stall and the woman working there was very friendly and informative. I considered buying a piece or two, but decided to at least wait and see what else I might come across. After all, I'd only been in Freiburg for an hour.

After poking around in the market a bit more I continued on through other parts of the old town. Günter had recommended that I find a bakery near Martinstor, one of the original gates into the city, that he really liked, so I decided that would be my next destination. I journeyed the five blocks or so with relative ease despite having to dodge some horse-pulled wagons in the narrow cobbled lanes

Notice the gutter, or Bächle, running along the side. These gurgled quaintly throughout the streets and folklore says if you tread or fall in one then you will marry a Freiburger, or 'Bobbele'.

and found the shop exactly where Günter said it would be: three storefronts in from the gate and on the right. I refrained from going in at the moment, waiting instead until Lauren could indulge with me, although the smells of fresh bread and würst that were wafting through that farmers market had whet my appetite.

After a bit more wandering down narrow alleys I wound my way back to the cathedral to linger there for a few more minutes before going back to the train station to meet Lauren. It was about all I could do to keep from getting a light snack since I figured Lauren would be hungry too, but about then she texted me to say she would be about an hour late due to a train that didn't get in on time. Unfortunately the farmers market was closing up, so I went inside the cathedral. I was drawn in by a slightly eerie booming that was rolling out of the doors and almost seemed to reverberate inside of me, and I didn't comprehend what it was until I stepped across the threshold of the entranceway. Someone was playing the organ. Well, practicing, really, but I've never heard someone practicing the organ, ever. It was really nice relaxing in the pews with my own semi-private organ performance (there were very few others in there), but eventually I had to go collect Lauren.

I found her at the train station with no problems, and after dropping off her bag in a locker we meandered back to the old town. We were both pretty hungry by that time, so I took her back to the Münster in the hopes that one of the würst stands would still be open, and we were in luck. We each had a weißwurst (white bratwurst) sandwich, then continued on to the bakery that Günter had recommended near Martinstor.

Martinstor

It turned out to be a very good suggestion and we split a slice of chocolate cake and a pastry. Then we took the scenic route back to the Münster and climbed the spire which afforded us a really nice view of the city and surrounding hillsides, still vibrantly colored with the changing leaves.

The cathedral was started in 1200 but the spire wasn't completed until 1330. There were a lot of names and old dates carved into the sandstone which were really interesting to look at. The oldest that I saw dated from the 16th century; it's fun to imagine someone else standing in that exact same spot looking out across the same hills almost five hundred years ago. I wonder how old a lot of the houses are, anyway. I know the half-timbered (fachwerkhäuser) structure was around long before the 1500s, but I'm not sure how big the town was then. Presumably it didn't really extend beyond the city wall (you can see part of the boundary at Martinstor in the picture, the white tower sticking up in the middle distance).

We went inside the Münster afterwards. Unfortunately the organ practice had stopped and there were more people milling about, but it was still nice. The stained glass was particularly interesting. At the western end of each side aisle there was an offset rose window which was partially cut-off. But the colors were spectacular!

There was another window that caught my attention on the right side nearest the apse. The depiction crosses the traditional boundaries to create a larger scene at the top. And, again, beautiful coloration! I also learned that the really deep red in some of the windows is not from a dye, but actually made with a suspension of solid gold nano particles, much like in crystal making or glass blowing.

I just can't help it; I'm a sucker for these things! Okay, one more interior cathedral picture, then I'm done, I swear!

It's a little difficult to tell here, but the window in the middle was also interesting in that it was all white and very pale colors.

There was also some really intricate wooden carving above the main door of the western façade (which was outside the cathedral, so I haven't really broken my promise!)

Afterwards Lauren and I wandered a little more, then stopped in at a neat café somewhere near Augustinerplatz and warmed our hands and stomachs for a bit. Then we headed off to find somewhere to get an early dinner before catching the train to Strasbourg, France.

I had gotten a few recommendations for some local cuisine when I went in to the tourist information office, and we thought that we had found one of them called Erzherzog Albrecht in a side street near the Rathaus, although I realized as we left and came to an intersection that I recognized that we weren't quite where I had thought we were. It was just as well, though, because the meal turned out to be really good and was very reasonably priced.

Then back to the train station and off to Strasbourg for the night. I enjoyed Freiburg, though; I'm really glad that we stopped off there even just for part of a day. Oh, and I forgot to mention, Lauren made a new friend! (Plus some other random photos.)

Day II (Part 2) - Fulda

Friday, 10 June, 2011 - When I was planning this trip I had the option to have a two hour layover in Fulda before boarding my overnight train up to Copenhagen, and after a little reading decided it would be a good place to stop and stretch my legs and see more of Germany, even if only a little.

Unfortunately, when I made this decision, I didn't consider what time I would be stopping there. I've gotten used to using military time enough that I often think of it as is without converting it back to the twelve hour clock, so when I saw that I would be getting into Fulda at 22:04, I didn't think about that actually being 10:04 and everything being closed.

The other mistake that I made was in switching out guide books right before I left, leaving mine in preference of one in the house library which was more compact, thus easier to carry around. I knew from earlier browsing that they both had equivalent information about Nürnberg, but I didn't double check that this replacement also had information about Fulda. It didn't.

I was going to get a little dessert and wander around because I had read about some worthwhile things to see there, but all of the restaurants were closed at that hour (at least where I was), and for the life of me I couldn't recall what was worth checking out. Admittedly becoming a bit dejected I eventually stumbled across a gelato shop that was still buzzing. For lack of anything better to do, I stopped there. After a somehow not-quite-satisfying gelato (or as close to a not-quite-satisfying gelato as one can get since such a thing doesn't exist), I was wracking my brain trying to remember what I read that had intrigued me so much. I was going to leave and take up my aimless wandering again, but on a whim turned back to the waiter and asked where he recommended I go to kill another hour. Although he had just moved from Poland and didn't know the city too well, he mentioned going to the gardens at the Stadtschloss. They were even still open by the time I got there at 11:15, though it was not lit at all so I couldn't see much. Still, I was able to get a sense of them and they certainly seemed spectacular - and smelled phenomenal. Fulda redeemed.

By then I was a ways from the station and figured it was time to make head back, passing Dom St Salvator und Bonifatius.

I also discovered why the town was so deserted despite being a Friday night: everyone was at this bar.

Seriously, music blaring, voices carrying, tables crowded, people continuously coming and going... that definitely seemed the place to be. Alas, I had a train to catch.

So, about that... I admit that I had a pretty romantic notion of this overnight train. I could just imagine dozing peacefully to the gentle vibrations of the track as I was whisked through the European countryside and waking to a fresh new day in an exciting new city. Wrong. I was crammed in a compartment with five other people, between two folks and facing the other row of three with maybe a two foot gap between us so we kept bumping legs. And the smell! I think it wouldn't have been so horrible except that the man across from me seemed to exude this horrific stench. And (AND!) he absolutely refused to put his shoes on for the duration of the ride. Not that he would have smelled much better with feet enclosed, but there was definitely a hint of foot in the awful scent. He also kept wandering in and out of the compartment, and every time he left everyone would take a deep breath of the 'cleaner' air. I don't think I fell asleep until about 6:00 when everyone in the compartment but two women had gotten off the train. Even then, it was only a light sleep.

But at 10:02 on Saturday morning, the train pulled into Copenhagen station...

Day II (Part 1) - Nürnberg

Friday, 10 June, 2011 - Up bright-eyed and bushy-tailed and out the door by 8:00am. I had, from that moment, eleven hours (giving myself an hour's leeway to go back and get my bag and head to the train station with ample time to make sure I was at the right platform) to see everything I hadn't seen the day before and I was going to fit it all in, dang it. Or so I thought. Most places didn't actually open until 9:00, so I wandered a bit and got a quick breakfast before heading over to the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (The Germanic National Museum), where I spent way more time than I had intended. It houses a really fascinating assortment of antiquities such as:

The Golden Cone of Ezelsdorf-Buch, 11th - 9th century B.C.

 Armor and Weaponry

Prunkschlitten (Ceremonial Sleigh), Munich, 1683

Globe, hand-painted, solid wood, 1520, conspicuously missing the Americas...

Of course there were paintings and the like, too, with work from Albrecht Dürer (1471-1528), Nürnberg's most famous resident.

By the time I left, well past noon, my stomach was indicating its displeasure at being neglected with a series of the usual low grumbles and my feet were already a little sore (out of practice, really, with walking/touring continuously throughout a day), thus I decided to head to the closest of the potential restaurants I had marked on my map. This just happened to take me to this lovely little example of a Gothic church, St. Lorenz (Lorenzkirche - West facade finished in the early 1360s).

Well, it actually took me to Nürnberg's only remaining tower house which is caticorner to the church.

Nassauer Keller, restaurant in the cellar of the tower house - really neat medieval atmosphere complete with vaulted ceilings and suits of armor

Sticking to my plan of not consuming potentially E.coli contaminated foods, I settled for a delicious lunch of lamb. Once sated, I backtracked along Karolinenstraße, the street leading to the church (which, by the way, royals preferred to travel up when visiting the city so as to approach the church straight on). Down by the Weiße Turm (white tower) there's a deceptively charming-looking fountain just begging to be investigated.

So I did. It turns out this fountain, the Marriage Carousel (Ehekarussell), sculpted by Jürgen Weber and put in in 1984, is based upon Hans Sachs' poem "The Bittersweet Married Life". It cycles through the duration of a relationship, from courtship to marriage to slovenliness to horrific death. Oh, and there are animals interspersed among the various stages, including a stork eating its own heart out. Don't you love the Germans?

 

  "Until death do you part"                      

 Wandering back towards Königstrasse, the main street, I passed by a shop with a woman outside offering samples of some of their bread and some tomato-based spread. Having tasted it and finding it to be delicious, I couldn't just continue on by, so I popped inside and was greeted by a lot of pink and floral pattern and a very cheery woman.

As I was the only patron in the store for a decent period of time, she continually offered me samples of all sorts of breads and spreads and juices and baked goods, reiterating with each new tasting that everything in the store was vegan and homegrown, "Just like your grandmother does it!" (for those of you who know Grandma, I think you would agree that 'vegan' is not quite her style). After being fed my second lunch tapa-style, I felt I couldn't leave without buying something (and, don't get me wrong, everything I ate was delicious!), so I settled on some classic German gingerbread. No, not like the little men you make and eat at Christmas, but thick, doughy cookies called "Lebkuchen" (aside: who knew Nürnberg is the most famous exporter of these delicious treats?!). The woman seemed so pleased with my choice that she insisted on giving me some pamphlets to take home to my family (obviously excluding my grandmother, who must already bake cookies like this all the time) so they can order some, too. It's almost as if she didn't trust me to not eat them all myself! So, if you're craving the most delicious gingerbread you've ever had, you could go to www.LebeGesund.de (they do have an English translation), and order a package of them... or many. Their English order form only seems to offer dark chocolate covered ones (not that that's a bad thing that it's their only choice!), but if you search for 'Lebkuchen' on their regular German page then they have the simple sugar-coated ones. Either way, she said they ship them to the US regularly, so I would imagine you could get either one...

Finally free of the temptations of Lebe Gesund, I continued my Northeasterly course until I came across... a farmers market in Hauptmarkt, the Market Square (Frauenkirche in the background). 

There I was suckered into buying more Lebkunchen. Oops. But in my defense, a lot of the stands were offering free samples, too, and it just tasted so good! In hindsight I can actually admit that I don't regret those purchases. I still have one bag of five remaining.

Also in the square is the Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), which used to bring clean drinking water to the citizens.

The bottom is ringed with figures representing the arts, such as astronomy, music, and philosophy. Above them are eight religious figures (which demonstrates that religion is higher than the arts and sciences), and the prophets are at the top.

This gold ring in the fencing is also supposed to bring good luck to anyone who spins it three times.

Anyway, to work off the vast amount of the food I had recently ingested, I figured it was time to make the hike up to Nürnberger Burg, the castle overlooking the old city. Once I got a little ways from the Hauptmarkt the streets began to ascend pretty rapidly towards a seemingly unattractive building until I rounded a corner and finally got to take in the fortified 12th century royal residence and burgrave and Imperial City buildings.

 There's the typical museum, a 165 foot well called the "Deep Well", a Romanesque chapel, various old buildings, 

 

a garden, and an opportunity to climb Sinwellturn (the round tower), which was built in the late 13th century, but I one of my favorite parts was simply the view out over the old city.

From there I started back towards the southern end of the old city, though turning right to walk through the western side, passing the Albrecht Dürer House, Dürer's last residence and now museum, along the way.

Across the street is a large interpretive sculpture of one of his most famous paintings, "The Hare". Keeping in German style, it's also a bit macabre with mice and other rabbits gnawing at it and a human foot sticking out from underneath.

Continuing along, I turned down a random side street and came across perhaps my favorite find of the entire trip: a studio with a bunch of really neat horse paintings. Well, I saw one painting of a horse that I was rather fond of in the window, so I went inside and discovered that this man, Daniel Prapone, seems to only use two topics as his subject matter; the rooms were filled with horses and nude women. I was quite taken by some of the horse paintings, though to be honest I wouldn't normally think of them as a style I'm crazy about as they have an abstract quality to them, but they also have some influence of impressionism with the focus on light, movement, and visible brush strokes (though his are much thicker than traditional impressionist works). We chatted for a while, and I really wanted to purchase one of two rather large paintings, but they were both about €200 more than I wanted to spend, so I settled for a smaller painting - the first I had seen which initially drew me inside. Downside: I still had three more days of travelling that I would then be doing with canvas in hand.

By this time it was getting to my final hour or so in the city, so I ate some more Nürnberger for dinner and killed some time browsing through a set of half-timbered shops, the Handwerkerhof, near the Frauentor entrance. There were various German crafts including leather work, glass blowning, pottery, brass and gold goods, and, of course, more Lebkuchen.

After that it was about time to get my bag and head to the station to catch my train to Fulda and on up to Copenhagen...

Day I - Nürnberg

Thursday, 9 June, 2011 - After seeing the Counseling group safely out and on their respective ways, I did a sweep of the house and caught the next train out to Nürnberg (Nuremberg), Germany. I must say, having a Eurail pass makes getting around extremely convenient because I can just hop on any train and be off as long as I log it. The train ride was uneventful as I just fluctuated between reading and watching the passing scenery for the five hour duration. I arrived at the train station

at about 5:30 which still gave me ample time to roam about, though I knew most places would be closed by then. I dropped my bag off where I would be staying, about three minutes from the station, then headed into the Altstadt (old town), just across the street from the station. This area, the city center, was the site of the original trading settlement that dates back to 1050 and is still surrounded by a three mile stretch of walls. The closest entrance was at this round tower:

Frauentor, which is one of the four original medieval entrances. My agenda for the evening was basically to get some dinner (I had a few suggestions from some guidebooks) and acclimate myself with the area

 
since it stays light until after 9:00 so that I would have a better idea of how to go about things on Friday. I started out by moving on a whim, following streets and sites that looked fascinating. I eventually wound my way to St. Sebaldus Kirche, one of the only things open past 6:00. The oldest church in the city, it was originally built from 1230-1273.

Tomb of St. Sebald by Peter Vischer the Elder, 1519, bronze, housing silver coffin from 1397 that contains relics of the saint

At this point I realized one of the restaurants on my list, Bratwursthäusle, was just around the corner, so I decided that was to be my dinner destination.

Avoiding the whole tomatoes, lettuce, etc. genre considering the recent E.coli outbreak, I thought some good ol' bratwurst would probably do the trick. Nürnberg in fact has its own local Bratwurst called, not surprisingly, Nürnberger - mini-sized sausages. The common remark is, "in der Kürze liegt die Würze," or, "in the shortness lies the tastiness." So I had Nürnberger with sauerkraut and a roll. Now, mind you, I normally am not the biggest fan of sauerkraut, but since it typically goes with these little sausages I thought I might as well get the full experience. I must admit, I was quite pleasantly surprised as this happened to be really good sauerkraut (though don't worry, Mom, I'm not going to be requesting that you make any next time I'm home).

Although simple, as is most traditional Franconian food, it was nonetheless tasty and did well to satisfy my cravings. Though I admit, I may have succumbed to the temptation of a cup of gelato for dessert (those little shops are everywhere! I swear you can't walk a block in Vienna, and apparently Nürnberg, either, without coming across one).

I spent most of the evening roaming around the western side of the town where I came across a slew of unexpected sites and information, including:

"Summer in the City" - a whole square, possibly a park, turned into a beach, complete with volleyball courts...

...a stunt biker...

...and this little area with multiple Irish pubs

I was mildly considering getting a Smithwick's as a throwback to my semester in Ireland, but when I stopped in this little place on the left to ask if they had any, the bartender, an Irish fellow, laughed and said that you can't find it anywhere in Germany. Apparently it's too difficult for the Germans to pronounce since their 'w' sounds like a 'v' (though the Irish pronounce this particular beer "Smiddick's", anyway), so they just don't bother to import it. He tried to offer me a Kilkenny Red, though agreed with me when I told him it just wasn't the same.

I also wandered down the wall a little ways

before turning down another side street and coming across 

an old tower house, possibly the last one remaining in the city (I seem to recall reading that somewhere), other picturesque places to eat,

and neat little details (or so I think) everywhere,

before eventually coming back across Königstrasse, the main street through the middle of the city. Random aside: see all the holes in the stones that look like they might be purposefully there? They are. They're in just about every stone in every building in the old town. It took me a while to find someone who knew why they were there, but the best answer I got was that they were placed there to make it easier for the stones to be hoisted up using tong-like implements. 

By that time it was starting to get dark (and nippy) so I made my way in for the night. My return stroll back down Königstrasse looked a little something like this:

 

Monument depicting characters from The Ship of Fools, a 15th century satire

 

 Looking down Klaragasse (yes, sadly charming Nürnberg has horrid franchising like Burger King - left - and a surprising number of Starbucks)

 Mauthalle, the old granary completed in 1502, now housing department stores